Prepping is more than just staying alive, it’s about thriving and preserving your life to the greatest extent possible. Many of the other things that we rely on for survival rely upon energy. We use it for a lot of things- heating, cooling, light, communications, all sorts of the things that we use rely upon energy. In some parts of the country, heat is important. Here in Florida, not so much. What we need is energy for cooking, light, air conditioning (summer heat will kill you more than our mild winters), communications, and other things. It’s on the prepping pyramid.

If you have read this blog for long, you know that two years ago, I added a backup power supply for the house. That supply consists of solar panels and a pair of Powerwall3’s to run the house when we aren’t making enough solar energy. One of the biggest limitations is battery capacity. Now that the tax refunds are no longer available for solar and battery installations, we need to make the ones we have last as long as possible. Adding more battery power in the form of another Powerwall would be great, but it’s a fairly expensive option. So we need to stretch what we have. That is, we need to match the loads being drawn to the energy provided, and do what we can to stretch battery charge to last as long as possible.
That’s where load shedding comes in. My early attempts at load shedding involved turning off breakers, and I even tried an Aquanta water heater switch, but it was nonfunctional garbage and I returned it.
I have a Synology server that’s already running Home Assistant, and this seemed like the way to go. I tasked Home Assistant with shedding loads. A home battery can keep the lights on during an outage, but its useful runtime depends heavily on what the house asks it to power. Instead of treating every circuit equally, this project gives Home Assistant a clear set of priorities: preserve essential comfort, shed discretionary loads in stages, and put daytime solar energy to work whenever it is available.
The system uses live Tesla Powerwall data and watches whether the house is connected to the grid or operating as an island. It also monitors battery charge, solar production, household demand, and real-time battery flow. The guiding principle is reliability: each Home Assistant automation has a focused job: important decisions require stable sensor readings, and loads are restored gradually rather than all at once.
At 80% battery, the upstairs air conditioner turns off. At 70%, the electric water heater is shed. At 50%, the main-floor air conditioner moves to a 80°F setpoint, and at 35% it shuts down. This preserves the 10 kWh of power for network and security services, lighting, and refrigeration. A critical warning is sent out as a push notification at 15%.
The most interesting part happens when the sun is shining during an outage. Loads are not restored merely because the battery percentage rises. The system first confirms sustained battery charging, then adds one load at a time with a stabilization period between each step. The main-floor HVAC returns first, initially at a conservative setting. Normal main-floor comfort follows when more energy is available, then the water heater, and finally the upstairs HVAC.
The 4,500-watt water heater stores hot water when a storm likely to cause a power outage is approaching. When the Tesla Powerwalls activate Storm Watch and the home is occupied, grid energy preheats the water in the tank even if the normal schedule would have it off. During an outage, strong solar surplus can also heat water instead of allowing energy to go unused. This function is controlled by an
Near a full battery, Tesla may curtail rooftop solar because the Powerwalls cannot accept additional charge. That makes ordinary surplus measurements misleading—the panels may be capable of producing more, but they have been told not to. To capture that energy, the automation can briefly test the water heater at 95% charge. It keeps the heater running only if measured battery flow shows that solar can support it; otherwise, it shuts the heater down and waits before trying again.
Grid restoration receives the same cautious treatment. Utility power and normal Powerwall status must remain stable for 10 minutes. The main-floor HVAC returns first, the water heater is reconciled with its schedule, and the upstairs HVAC follows later. Staggering the sequence avoids a sudden surge and reduces the chance that unstable utility service will cause equipment to cycle repeatedly.
I also have a “vacation mode” that is initiated by a simple virtual switch on the HA dashboard. Activating that turns off the water heater and sets both HVAC units to 79 degF. That level allows the HVAC units to maintain a relative humidity of less than 55%, which is a good way to minimize mold growth.
We recently spent 5 days in Maine shutting down the BOL, and the house only averaged 31 kwh per day while we were gone. Normal power usage in the summer is about 70kwh per day. Since we generate about 47 kwh per day from solar, I think this is a doable system, but I will have to add some panels in the future so we can have a little more breathing room for cloudy days.
When we are in routine operation, the system turns the water heater off from 11pm to 5am, then Monday through Friday, again from 9am to 2pm.
The result of all of this is not simply a collection of “if battery is low, turn something off” rules. It is a small energy-management system built around priorities, measured power flow, and graceful recovery. In this way, I maximize the power and battery capacity I have available.
